CHANGING THE VALUES OF THE PAST TO
FUTURE
Nebahat Akgün Çomak
Nilüfer Pembecioğlu
Galatasaray University
Faculty of Communication
Istanbul, Turkey
ncomak@gsu.edu.tr
Istanbul University
Faculty of Communication
Istanbul, Turkey
niluferpembecioglu@gmail.com
Less” by the end of the 20th century [1]. Also the politics
versus science had a longlasting conflict effect on societies.
From time to time, the global food chains effected a certain
type of food consumption and in other times, the scientific
findings insisted on i.e. animal fat vs. vegetable oil or vice
versa. When we consider the reasons behind why we choose
certain type of food instead of another it is usually not a
reasonable reply we get. The fights between the food lobbies
and lobbyists are leading to hard play on societies. Even if we
have certain traditions, values we may say that each
generation is creating a new chain of food.
Abstract— The values are the most important part of the culture
and contain images resisting to changes for centuries. Most of the
individuals are consciously or unconsciously carry this part of
culture as a heritage and hand it to the next generations.
However, with the influence of the media especially in the 21st
century individuals do not adopt the values as much as they did
in the past. The modern individual is almost ready to give up any
kind of value when s/he comes across with something more
challenging or convincing for them. That’s why the histories and
the books, the humanity is re-written all over the world.
The individuals are merely a composition of their own
thoughts and believes as well as their heritage they got through
centuries. These may include the preferences, the tastes and the
addictions as well as the genetic functions. The way they use the
body language for example or the traditional family lives are all
somehow linked to this kind of preferences lists. The meals and
the usual drinks are also linked with the past generations and
future expectations.
Starting from the early ages the children are effected
through the choices made by the adults. In just recent years we
know that theere are more restrictions for cola drinks, chips
and sugary foods sales at schools. Considering the USA and
other countries, there are also bans at schools for i.e. peanut
allergy. Yet, there are more advertisements for pushing soft
drinks or other colourful foods.
The believes of the 21st century such as “You Are What You
Eat” still carry not only a cultural value but also a medical value.
The media on the other hand is trying hard to change the
customs and traditions of the people all over the world providing
them always new choices and innovative re-generated food. The
media is changing the values of the past for future consumptions.
This paper is an attempt to analyze how the media could be
affective in Turkey to change the food and beverages
consumption and how convincing the advertisements are in this
respect.
When the dietry supplements and other food politics are
considered, the nutrition issues turn to become a research not
only for the individuals but also for the policy makers,
advertisers or institutions. For example we know how
UNICEF is not supporting the events when Nestle is involved.
The pseudo created controversies sometimes trigger the
biotech battles as well as the agricultural developments. Even
if WTO (World Trade Organization) put some rules,
“Conditions other than science are affecting the (European)
regulations” [2].
The paper concentrates on national and international brands
to start the day and mainly provides and analysis on how the
soup changed to tea and tea to coffee for breakfast in Turkish
society. With the recent advertising strategies, the discourse
analysis of the advertisements are handled to provide a setting
for the change precisely showing that the change is not something
unknown or haphazard but planned and oriented in a particular
way. The paper provides a detailed semantic analysis of the
coffee advertisements in the printed press for the year 2013.
We know that growing food is not as simple as it was in
the 18th or 19th century when we have organizations like
Food and Drug Law Institute (FDLI) involving many others
such as food and agricultural industries, government agencies,
agricultural biotechnology firms, investment banks, consulting
industry, private foundations and the media. When we look it
as a whole, even the fitness centers are involved in the food
politics. What we expect from all these regulations and
organizations is just the food safety system providing
assurances that foods derived from biotechnology are at least
as safe as traditionally derived foods. Larisa Rudenko, director
of a Washington based consulting firm, states her concerns
about the industry’s ability to attract investors. In her view, the
Key Words: Values, Traditional, Modern, Tea, Coffee
I.
INTRODUCTION
How people live and how the start their day change from
one country to another. The eating disorders, changing
health conditions changed our habit from “Eeat More” to “Eat
This paper is supported by Galatasaray University with 14.300.003
project and accepted to be presented in 3rd Annual International Conference
On Journalism & Mass Communications (JMComm 2014) 22nd-23rd
September, 2014, Singapore.
1
industry need to work much harder to improve public
perceptions and consumer acceptance of genetically modified
(GM) food. [3]. From this point of view biotechnology is
becoming a social problem. In 1974, the World Food
Summit defined food security as: availability at all times of
adequate world food supplies of basic foodstuffs to sustain a
steady expansion of food consumption and to offset
fluctuations in production and prices.
concerns and predictions are gaining the attention of those
most concern with ensuring an adequate worldwide food
supply [6].
A. The Depicted Meanings of Food
Whatever the rulers impose, in most cultures, the food is
associated with different types of mood or being. The grapes
for example are for joy and celebration, walnut is for brain
activity, chocolate is for depression, milk is for good sleep,
etc. Exhilarating substances are mainly summed up as tea,
coffee and tobacco. Sometimes, the cigarette is associated
with problems, loneliness or heart pain. Even if it’s banned in
65 countries including USA (California - 1993), Netherlands
and Ireland, (2004), France (2007), Germany (2008), Spain
(2006) Norway (2004), Sweden (2005), Kosovo (2011) and
Turkey (2009) there seems to be too much tobacco
consumption all over the world. These bans affected the
agriculture of tobacco and its more than 70 species. Not only
the tobacco plant but the dried tobacco leaves which are
mainly used for smoked cigarettes, cigars, pipe, etc. Regarding
the main tobacco producers in China, India, Brazil, USA,
Indonesia, Malawi, Argentina, Tanzania and Zimbabwe, the
production reaches to 7.490.662 tones (in 2012).
Media is feeding and shaping us via the ads, commercials
and other linguistic and non linguistic images. The news and
television programs are cut by several ads because they pay
enough. However, we frequently come accross with the
hidden messages including backwards audio messages, hidden
visual messages and symbolic or cryptic codes such as
a crossword or cipher. Even if the juxtapositions are a bit
creepy they achieve their aims.
Apart from the In 1995 made film Waterworld, again the
food wars are handled. In thi film, in a future where the polar
ice-caps have melted and Earth is almost entirely submerged,
a mutated mariner fights starvation and outlaw "smokers," and
reluctantly helps a woman and a young girl try to find dry
land. In another film The Hunger Games, based on the book
of Suzanne Collings, the fights for the food and video images
of the future world affect people.
The consumption of the tobacco was somewhat limited
compared to the other products. Smoking in public was, for a
long time, reserved for men, and when done by women was
sometimes associated with promiscuity; in Japan, during
the Edo period, prostitutes and their clients often approached
one another under the guise of offering a smoke. The same
was true in 19th-century Europe [7]. However, the highering
rates of smoking had a peak during the 1960’s. Smoking rates
in the United States have dropped by half from 1965 to 2006,
falling from 42% to 20.8% in adults. [8].
In all these examples, we may see that we are surrounded
with the world changing our values and habits. The values are
the most important part of the culture and contain images
resisting to changes for centuries. Most of the individuals are
consciously or unconsciously carry this part of culture as a
heritage and hand it to the next generations. However, with the
influence of the media especially in the 21st century
individuals do not adopt the values as much as they did in the
past. The modern individual is almost ready to give up any
kind of value when s/he comes accross with something more
challenging or convincing for them. That’s why the histories
and the books, the humanity is re-written all over the world.
Food or food production is not the only matter. Sometimes,
related human force is also as important as the product itself.
The International Labour Office reported that the most childlaborers work in agriculture, which is one of the most
hazardous types of work. For example, the tobacco industry
houses some of these working children. There is widespread
use of children on farms in Argentina, Brazil, China, India,
Indonesia, Malawi and Zimbabwe [9]. The child-laborers
complained of low pay, long hours as well as physical and
sexual abuse by their supervisors [10]. They also reported
suffering from Green Tobacco Sickness, a form of nicotine
poisoning which means children are exposed to 50 cigarettes
worth of nicotine through direct contact with tobacco leaves.
As we all know, this level of nicotine in children can
permanently alter brain structure and function. When wet
leaves are handled, nicotine from the leaves gets absorbed in
the skin and causes nausea, vomiting and dizziness. This
means that , on one hand, we’re trying to save children
because the smoking age is getting lower and lower almost in
all countries and on the other hand, we’re forcing the children
to work in such a field to cause them more damage [11].
Food politics are the political aspects of the production,
control, regulation, inspection, distribution and consumption
of food. However, the politics can be affected by cultural,
medical, theethical and environmental disputes concerning
proper farming, agricultural and retailing methods and
regulations.
Government policies around food production, distribution,
and consumption influence the cost, availability, and safety of
the food supply domestically and internationally. On a
national scale, food policy work affects farmers, food
processors, wholesalers, retailers and consumers. Commodity
crops, such as corn, rice, wheat, and soy are most often at the
heart of agricultural policy-making [4].
While most food policy is initiated domestically, there are
international ramifications. Globally, protectionist trade
policies, international trade agreements, famine, political
instability, and development aid are among the primary
influences on food policy [5]. Increasingly, climate change
2
B. Coffee As A Beverage In Turkey
Coffee is slightly acidic (pH 5.0–5.1) and can have a
stimulating effect on humans because of its caffeine content.
Coffee cultivation first took place in southern Arabia; the
earliest credible evidence of coffee-drinking appears in the
middle of the 15th century in the Sufi shrines of Yemen. [16].
Starting from the 16th century it is accepted by most of the
societies in the world and especially in the 19th and 20th
century it became one of the most popular drinks in the
world. One of the reasons is that it can be prepared and
presented in a variety of ways, served as cold or hot. The
effect of coffee on human health has been a subject of many
studies; however, results have varied in terms of coffee's
relative benefit [17] as well as the risks specifically for heart
depending upon the density of consumption.
As one of the exhilarating substances coffee became
widely used only within the last century. In 1583, Leonhard
Rauwolf, a German physician, gave this description of coffee
after returning from a ten-year trip to the Near East: “A
beverage as black as ink, useful against numerous illnesses,
particularly those of the stomach. Its consumers take it in the
morning, quite frankly, in a porcelain cup that is passed
around and from which each one drinks a cupful. It is
composed of water and the fruit from a bush called bunnu.”
[12].
Starting from the oldest tales, myths and legends, drinking
substances, beverages may have an impact on the body as to
change it into something good or bad. So, drinking is
associated with the first step of the change. The beverages are
suggested to keep you cold, hot, warm, calm, happy, young or
active. Some of the drinkable substances are very natural such
as the water or mineral water, the vegetable juices or such.
However, the others require some special cultivation, energy
and techniques to be prepared. Culture is one of the most
important dynamics to affect what to drink and how to drink
it. Usually, the rituals and traditions have more impact on
societies to determine the habits and daily use.
Recognizing the energizing effect of the coffee plant goes
back as long as the 15th century. Drinking coffee is believed to
provide extra energy for the body and brain [18]. That’s why
drinking coffee is associated with movements and social
events in general. In the East Africa and Yemen, coffee was
used in native religious ceremonies. As these ceremonies
conflicted with the beliefs of the Christian church,
the Ethiopian Church banned the secular consumption of
coffee until the reign of Emperor Menelik II. [19].The
beverage was extensively used by the Muslim people but also
banned in Ottoman time during the 17th century for political
reasons [20] and was associated with rebellious political
activities in Europe.
Coffee was initially used for spiritual reasons. At least
1,100 years ago, traders brought coffee across the Red
Sea into
Arabia
(modern-day
Yemen),
where
Muslim dervishes began cultivating the shrub in their gardens.
At first, the Arabians made wine from the pulp of the
fermented coffee berries. This beverage was known
as qishr (kisher) and was used during religious ceremonies
[13]. Coffee drinking was prohibited by jurists and scholars
(ulema) meeting in Mecca in 1511 as haraam, but the subject
of whether it was intoxicating was hotly debated over the next
30 years until the ban was finally overturned in the mid-16th
century. Use in religious rites among the Sufi branch of Islam
led to coffee's being put on trial in Mecca: it was accused of
being a heretical substance, and its production and
consumption were briefly repressed. It was later prohibited in
Ottoman Turkey under an edict by the Sultan Murad IV. Later,
coffee, regarded as a Muslim drink, was prohibited
by Ethiopian Orthodox Christians until as late as 1889; it is
now considered a national drink of Ethiopia for people of all
faiths [14].
The first reference to coffee in the English language is in
the form chaona, dated to 1598 and understood to be a
misprint of chaoua (equivalent, in the orthography of the time,
to chaova). This term and "coffee" both derive from
the Ottoman Turkish kahve [21], possibly by way of
the Italian caffè.
This
in
turn
derives
from
the Arabic qahwah ( )ﻗﻬ ﻮﺓ. This is traditionally held to have
originally referred to a type of wine, whose etymology is
given
by Arab lexicographers as
deriving
from
the
verb qahā (ﻗﻬ ﺎ, "to lack hunger") in reference to the drink's
reputation as an appetite suppressant [22] referring to the
legendary accounts of Oromo people, in Ethiopia, specifically
the incredible stories of Sheik Omar in Yemen and Egypt, the
shepherd named Kaldi, Yemeni sheikh of Shazil, ez-Zebhani,
as well as Solomon, the Prophet. It is sometimes alternatively
traced to the Arabic "quwwa" ("power, energy") or to Kaffa, a
medieval kingdom in Ethiopia whence the plant was exported
to Arabia. The name qahwah, however, is not used for the
berry or plant (the products of the region), which are known in
Arabic as bunn and Shoa as būn [22]. Others with "equally
little authority" even hold that the region was named after the
drink.
Coffee is a brewed beverage prepared from the roasted or
baked seeds of several species of an evergreen shrub of
the genus Coffee. The two most common sources of coffee
beans are the highly regarded Coffee Arabica, and the
"robusta" form of the hardier Coffea canephora having a bitter
taste.
The Sufi Muslims’ acceptance of coffee drinking
extensively made it reach to the 16th century. By the 16th
century, it had reached the rest of the Middle East, Persia,
Ottoman and Northern Africa. With the help of the smugglers,
the coffee seeds are taken from Ethiopia to Yemen by Sufi
Baba Budan and coffee spread to Italy, Europe, Indonesia and
America. Many societies are introduced to coffee and coffee
Today, coffee plants are cultivated in more than 70
countries, primarily in equatorial Latin America, Southeast
Asia, and Africa. Once ripe, coffee "berries" are picked,
processed and dried to yield the seeds inside. The seeds are
then roasted to varying degrees, depending on the desired
flavor, before being ground and brewed to create coffee [15].
3
houses later on. The Dutch introduced coffee to Java and
Ceylon, The British to Austria and Poland and the Frenchman
to Dominican Republic as well as Haiti. Meanwhile, coffee
had been introduced to Brazil in 1727, although its cultivation
did not gather momentum until independence in 1822 [23].
85–88 °C. Most coffee is roasted and ground at a roastery and
sold in packaged form, though roasted coffee seeds can be
ground at home immediately before consumption. The choice
of brewing method depends to some extent on the degree to
which the coffee seeds have been roasted. Lighter roasted
coffee tends to be used for filter coffee as the combination of
method and roast style results in higher acidity, complexity,
and clearer nuances whereas darker roasted coffee is used for
espresso because the machine naturally extracts more
dissolved solids, causing lighter coffee to become too acidic.
From the Middle East, coffee spread to Italy. The thriving
trade between Venice and thus it was introduced to the rest of
Europe. Coffee became more widely accepted after it was
deemed a Christian beverage by Pope Clement VIII in 1600,
despite appeals to ban the "Muslim drink." Through the efforts
of the British East India Company, coffee became popular in
England as well. Oxford's Queen's Lane Coffee House,
established in 1654, is still in existence today. Coffee was
introduced in France in 1657, and in Austria and Poland after
the 1683 Battle of Vienna, when coffee was captured from
supplies of the defeated Turks [23].
The type of grind is often named after the brewing method
for which it is generally used. Turkish grind is the finest grind,
while coffee percolator or French press is the coarsest grinds.
The most common grinds are between these two extremes: a
medium grind is used in most home coffee-brewing machines.
Coffee may be brewed by several methods. It may be boiled,
steeped, or pressurized.
Soon coffee has become a vital cash crop for
many developing countries. Over one hundred million people
have become dependent on coffee as their primary source of
income. It has become the primary export and backbone for
African countries like Uganda, Burundi, Rwanda, and
Ethiopia, as well as many Central American countries. Today,
top twenty green coffee producers include Brazil, Vietnam,
Indonesia, Colombia, Ethiopia, Peru, India, Honduras,
Mexico, Guatemala, Uganda, Nicaragua, Costa Rica, Ivory
Coast, Papua New Guinea, El Salvador, Cambodia, Ecuador,
Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Once brewed, coffee may be served in a variety of ways.
Drip-brewed, percolated, or French-pressed/cafetière coffee
may be served as white coffee with a dairy product such as
milk or cream, or dairy substitute, or as black coffee with no
such addition. It may be sweetened with sugar or artificial
sweetener. When served cold, it is called iced coffee.
Espresso-based coffee has a variety of possible presentations
such as Caffe Americano, long black, cappuccino, caffe
macchiato or café latte. Coffee can also be incorporated with
alcohol to produce a variety of beverages: it is combined with
whiskey in i.e. Irish coffee and it forms the base of alcoholic
coffee liqueurs such as Kahlùa and Tia Maria.
Food manufacturing and processing is a heavily
concentrated industry. The 10 largest food companies in the
United States control more than half of all food sales
domestically and a growing percentage of packaged food and
beverage products on store shelves worldwide [24].
Instant Coffee does not sound as a magical word any more
yet, it was a revolution in the past. Today a number of
products are sold for the convenience of consumers who do
not want to prepare their own coffee. This form of coffee is
mainly known as instant coffee which is dried into soluble
powder or freeze dried into granules that can be quickly
dissolved in hot water. Originally invented in 1907, [26] it
rapidly gained in popularity in many countries in the post-war
period, with Nescafé being the most popular product and
brand.
C. Modernization of Processing Roasting and Grading The
Coffee
Coffee berries and their seeds undergo several processes
before they become the familiar roasted coffee. The roasting
process influences the taste of the beverage by changing the
coffee seed both physically and chemically. Coffee is best
stored in an airtight container made of ceramic, glass, or nonreactive metal [25]. Coffee freshness and flavor is preserved
when it is stored away from moisture, heat, and light. To make
it practical, in 1931, a method of packing coffee in a sealed
vacuum in cans was introduced. The roasted coffee was
packed and then 99% of the air was removed, allowing the
coffee to be stored indefinitely until the can was opened.
Today this method is in mass use for coffee in a large part of
the world especially for instant coffee.
D. Changing The Values Of The Past To Future
In nowadays, coffee is often consumed alongside (or
instead of) breakfast by many at home. It is often served at the
end of a meal, normally with a dessert, and at times with an
after-dinner mint especially when consumed at a restaurant or
dinner party. Regarding the Turkish society, having a cup of
soup in the morning in the past, this is quite a change in habits
and traditions. Instead of using homemade nutritious goods the
growing tendencies for coffee from Brazil or Vietnam sound
interesting. The role of media in this process is more than
anything else. Especially, the notion of “coffee break” took
place in the daily conversations and programming. How could
one know that first promoted in 1952 could mean a lot to the
working class in today’s world. This notion also brought the
As for the last step before final consumption, coffee seeds
must be ground and brewed to create a beverage. The criteria
for choosing a method include flavor and economy. Brewing
considerations include the fineness of grind, the way in which
the water is to extract the flavor, additional flavorings such
as sugar, milk, and spices, and the technique to be used to
separate spent grounds. Ideal holding temperatures range from
4
concepts such as better facilities to brew coffee or tea, fast
food and more than anything else, instant coffee and vending
machines. This also brought the idea of establishing separate
places called as coffee houses for short meetings or breaks.
The best 7 coffee houses list made by Food Riot names
Mandabatmaz Kahvehanesi in Istiklal, Beyoğlu, (Istanbul –
Turkey) as the first one of the list including, Café Central,
Vienna-Austria, Caffee Florian, Venice-Italy, Caffee Cucca,
Milano-Italy, Café des 2 Moulins, Paris-France, Caffe Reggio,
New York – USA, Café du Monde, New Orleans-USA.
Most widely known as coffeehouses or cafés,
establishments serving prepared coffee or other hot beverages
have existed for over five hundred years. Various legends
involving the introduction of coffee to Istanbul at a "Kiva
Han" in the late 15th century circulate in culinary tradition,
but with no documentation [27]. Coffeehouses in Mecca soon
became a concern as places for political gatherings to the
imams who banned them, and the drink, for Muslims between
1512 and 1524. In 1530 the first coffee house was opened
in Damascus [28] First coffee houses in Constantinople was
opened in 1475 [29] by traders arriving from Damascus
and Aleppo. Soon after, coffee houses became part of
the Ottoman Culture, spreading rapidly to all regions of
the Ottoman Empire.
II.
AIM AND METHODOLOGY
For food production, the social and political dynamics
could not be denied. It’s all about how the social tendencies
were established and how the images are used to establish new
dimensions for food consumption. The individuals are merely
a composition of their own thoughts and believes as well as
their heritage they got through centuries. These may include
the preferences, the tastes and the addictions as well as the
genetic functions. The way they use the body language for
example or the traditional family lives are all somehow linked
to this kind of preferences lists. The meals and the usual
drinks are also linked with the past generations and future
expectations.
In the 17th century, coffee appeared for the first time in
Europe outside the Ottoman Empire, and coffeehouses were
established and quickly became popular. The first
coffeehouses in Western Europe appeared in Venice, a result
of the traffic between La Serenissima and the Ottomans; the
very first one is recorded in 1645. The first coffeehouse in
England was set up in Oxford in 1650 by a Jewish man named
Jacob in the building now known as "The Grand Cafe". A
plaque on the wall still commemorates this and the Cafe is
now a trendy cocktail bar [30]. By 1675, there were more than
3,000 coffeehouses in England [31].
The believes of the 21st century such as “You Are What
You Eat” still carry not only a cultural value but also a
medical value. The media on the other hand is trying hard to
change the customs and traditions of the people all over the
world providing them always new choices and innovative regenerated food. The media is changing the values of the past
for future consumptions. This paper is an attempt to analyze
how the media could be affective in Turkey to change the food
and beverages consumption and how convincing the
advertisements are in this respect.
After the second Turkish siege of Vienna in 1683, the
Viennese discovered many bags of coffee in the abandoned
Ottoman encampment. Using this captured stock, a Polish
soldier named Kulczycki opened the first coffeehouse in
Vienna [32]
After this brief introduction to the concept of coffee, the
paper concentrates on national and international brands to start
the day and mainly provides and analysis on how the soup
changed to tea and tea to coffee for breakfast in Turkish
society. With the recent advertising strategies, the discourse
analysis of the advertisements are handled to provide a setting
for the change precisely showing that the change is not
something unknown or haphazard but planned and oriented in
a particular way. The paper provides a detailed semantic
analysis of the coffee advertisements in the printed press for
the year 2013. The media plays an important role in
cultivating messages sometimes they especially cultivate and
express nationalist sentiments through their food presentations
and possible choices. And sometimes they impose the
globalization efforts. The paper concentrates on the media
messages regarding coffee news and advertisements in Turkey
during 2013. Concentrating mainly on the press, the use of
coffee ads are analyzed semiotically to decipher the cultural
and linguistic codes in them to be compared and contrasted
with the global ads.
According to Pendergrast the modern espresso machine
was born in Milan in 1945 and from there spread
across coffeehouses and restaurants across Italy and the rest of
Europe and North America in the early 1950s. The
international coffeehouse chain Starbucks began as a modest
business roasting and selling quality coffee seeds in 1971, by
three college students Jerry Baldwin, Gordon Bowker and Zev
Siegl. The first store opened on March 30, 1971 at the Pike
Place Market in Seattle, followed by a second and third over
the next two years. The company today has 16,600 stores in
over 40 countries worldwide [33].
It is interesting to note that UNESCO Intergovernmental
Committee for the Safeguarding of the Intangible Cultural
Heritage added Turkish Coffee into the list of the
representation as well as (mesir paste, wedding dinner, keskek,
gooseberry tradition, whirling, Karagöz and Hacivat,
Kırkpınar Wrestling, Aşık Talks, Nowruz, meddah) in
December 18, 2013. [34] As for the Turkish coffee preparation
and presentation requires certain characteristics only
representing the Turkish culture, being the head of the list is
appropriate for Turkish coffee.
III.
FINDINGS AND INTERPRETATIONS
In the translation of Kamus, [35] coffee means saturation,
pure, milk, odor. For Güvenç, [36] banning the cigarette
smoking and coffee drinking as well as limiting the arts and
music, caused regress for the Ottomans. However, in
5
nowadays, we, as the part of the modern society seem to forget
all these and even the most literate or illiterate person selling
Turkish coffee and Maraş Dondurma in the touristic places of
Anatolia are wearing their folkloric costumes as if it is a part
of our national tradition. So, the only thing not change is
change. The travel book of Evliya Çelebi [37] mentions
Turkish coffee several times as a sign of hospitality in general
Anatolia “..and they brought Turkish coffee to their brothers to
welcome him”
A. Presentation of Coffee In Media
During the ‘packing’ of the concept, the colours, the music
even the odor is used to implement the desired affect on
people. They seem to be helpless when they come across with
the messages. Yet, especially, making it more sentimental,
associating the product with the feelings becomes the crucial
point.
The ordinary people do not know much about how the
product is processed in different ways, perhaps in different
countries or the changes in the world dynamics i.e. while
Brazil remains the largest coffee exporting nation, Vietnam
tripling its exports between 1995 and 1999 is becoming the
major producer of robusta seeds [40], etc. They neither
understand the major politics nor think about their actions on
the way of their consumptions.
Seventeenth Century French traveler Jean de Thévenot
who was introduced to coffee during his long stay in the
Ottoman Empire, described in lengthy detail how to prepare
this strange drink (in a way similar to how it is still done
today) and referred to its importance in daily life: “… rich or
poor, every Turk drinks at least two cups of coffee a day, and
every marital engagement puts the husband in charge of
providing coffee to his wife.” Nineteenth Century Italian
traveler Edmondo de Amicis who visited and remained here
for a time writes: “There is coffee at the top of the Galata
Tower and the Beyazit Tower, coffee on the steamboats,
coffee at the cemeteries, coffee in offices of State, coffee in
the baths, coffee in the markets. Wherever one happens to
roam in Istanbul, simply by shouting ‘coffee!’ without even
looking, one will be holding a coffee cup within three
minutes.” [38]
Being in the lives of the people for more than 500 years,
the Turkish coffee seem to be lacking enough advertisement
but keeping its resistance within the daily routines,
conversations, after meal talks, etc. However, the other type of
coffee brands are continuously advertising to get more out of
the market. It is interesting to note that only the concept of
coffee and the product of a certain brand is advertised but it is
enough to run to the coffeehouses or change the traditional
way of drinking coffee.
The presentation of the Turkish coffee in the visual media
is very practical but stereotyped with its frothy coffee with a
little glass of water by the side. Nice and ornamented usually
silver side cups contain and a piece of delight, chocolate as
well. Usually, mint liqueur accompanies the ceremony during
the feast days. While the liqueur is served within small crystal
glasses, the coffee is served in nice porcelain cups with
magnificent silver covers and caps on them carefully placed
on a silver tray having a piece of lace under the water glass.
All in all the coffee is a must for the traditional lifestyles as
much as the modern one.
Today, when we google three words, coffee, culture and
association, (kahve kültürü dernek) we may reach to 971.000
results. One of these associations, The Turkish Coffee Culture
and Research Association was founded to preserve this
cultural treasure of ours and to convey to future generations
the social importance of coffee to the Turkish identity. Among
their findings we learn that J.S. Bach composed his coffee
cantata due to his own addiction to coffee [38]. The French
novelist Pierre Loti is known with his coffeehouse in Eyüp,
İstanbul with his name. Just like him, many Turkish writers
and poets like Karacaoğlan mention Turkish Coffee with great
dedication. Foreign writers like Victor Hugo, Alexandre
Dumas, Moliare, Andre Gide, Balzac are all known with their
addictions to Turkish coffee and frequent references in their
writings.
As for the visual media, fox tv ads belt were recorded for a
week and the coffee ads were recorded. It was interesting to
see different brands having a 104 seconds ads altogether were
repeated 60 times specifically when the audience density
reaches its peak. That means the audience were exposed to
104 minutes of coffee ads during their ordinary watching
activity equally meaning 14,85 minutes per day. This is almost
equal to a coffee break time.
The rituals in general had an impact on the society and
discourse. The colloquial usage of the term could be found in
many idioms and humor examples. “The heart is asking
neither for coffee nor coffeehouse, it just wants to chat with
another heart, so, coffee is just an excuse.” or “To talk over a
bitter cup of coffee” are just few of them. The coffee is such
a valuable thing that, it is appreciable for forty years. The late
coming coffee is questioned if it is coming through Yemen or
not. This humor in fact accommodates some truth in it. The
coffeehouses are the teaching places, social and cultural restructuring centers that are called as “from the core to culture”
just like the coffee itself processed.
Once the ads are analyzed through Hermeneutics Symbolic
Communication Method what we can see in those adds could
vary in detail. There are nine types of signs to analyze the ads
semiotically. Firstly, the coffee beans are shown, which might
be classified as the signs of the plants. Visuals reaching to the
roots of the habit would enrich the habit formation period. The
second signs are the images referring to the natural ones such
as clouds, nature, green colour, earth, etc. Through the use of
these signs mainly the smelling senses were activated. The
third sign is the geometrical sign type such as the shape of the
cup, coffee can etc. In this category some ads include multiple
cups such as animated objects, acting like human beings. The
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accessible and in different forms to meet the needs of the
different individuals and social groups.
fourth type of sign is the animal signs. When asked to people
coffee is associated with tenderness and friendship that means
having a cat or dog or a fish. But, in the past it was associated
with camels or mules. The signs referring to space turn to be
the images like a piece of serenity, being in nature, scenes like
paradise etc. could be seen. The signs referring to mystic
concepts are too much when Turkish coffee is considered.
Cups also are associated with the mystic concepts due to the
long fortune telling sessions of the past and present days. It
may be argued that even if the instant coffee sell more than the
traditional coffee, there will always be some place for the
fortune telling sessions and traditional Turkish coffee. The
signs referring to objects might be regarded as the sacred
objects or objects touching people in the emotional,
intellectual or other sentimental ways. The other two types of
signs refer to colours and numerical signs. The colour of the
coffee is usually brownish and yellow whereas depending on
the brand blue, red and other colours might be used
effectively. Regarding the numbers the ones having coffee,
milk and sugar are referred as ‘three in one’. However, the
fortune tellers say things like ‘you’ll have a visitor in three
days time’ or ‘in a month’s time you’ll have an official letter’,
etc.
Turkish coffee is also following the trends in order not to
lose its prominent position in the society in its national and
international sense. At this point the question is if there is
enough hope for the Turkish Coffee or not. Unfortunately, it
seems that the media coffee sells more than the traditional one.
The Turkish people were so addicted to Turkish coffee and
the sincere talk around it that, during the second world war
they scarcity of the coffee beans forced them brew chickpea
coffee with nigella powder yet, they never thought of giving
up their coffee drinking habits. However, things have changed
a lot now. The people drinking Mırra or other type of
traditional coffee are abolishing. But on the other hand
modern coffee market is enlarging providing better and
practical tastes.
The Shems Gıda of Gaziantep, a city famous for its coffee
making traditions is now providing the 5 seconds readymade
Turkish coffee in the instant coffee bags offering plain, with
sugar and without sugar tastes for the consumers. The new
brand name Shazili referring to the reverend Yemeni Sufi
Sheikh of Shazil of the 14th century is expected to multiply
the curent consumption five times [41].
Regarding the semiotic analysis of the coffee ads on
television, it is interesting to see that most of the visuals
belong to the traditional but exaggerated scenes. Mostly the
importance is given into practicality or the ‘visual’ taste of the
coffee, such as the coffee bubbles. Mainly the visuals refer to
the good old days of the past memories such as the old people,
friendship or any kind of attachment. The Mubarak days are
exploited in this way as well, the elder people waiting for the
young ones to pay a visit to them etc.
IV.
One other sector leader prompting with its “inviting odor”
ads refers to the sentiments concentrating on the emotional
relationship rather than the traditions. In the country of special
coffee pots called as cezve for more than 500 years, they were
successful to bring the instant coffee machines or instant
coffee by 1990’s. Yet, today, they reached to 1billion of the
market profit. However, the coffehouses sell more than the
products itself. The individuals longing to sit and relax with a
friend or having an official meeting now prefer the
coffeehouses.
CONCLUSION: CHANGING ATTITUDES
A cultural backlash against an increasingly modernized
and mechanized food industry has taken a number of different
forms like ‘Local Food’, ‘Meatless Monday’ and ‘Slow Food’.
Yet, most of the people are still under the influence of media.
From the very beginning, the coffee and different habits
around it were shaped through the word of mouth. With the
press and audio visual media, the impact reached to higher
degrees. In fact, searching through the history of coffee one
might see how difficult it was to accept the new products,
habits, etc. The effort to be cautious, not knowing the side
effects yet or having difficulty in positioning it into life
whatever the reason was, the communities were having a
distant position to coffee. Once the habits were formed it’s
difficult to change them, at least it was up to the media age.
Yet, now, the media is providing the individuals and societies
certain episodes, roles in the family, groups or institutions,
woven with certain behaviour clusters approved or
disapproved actions. Media is also forcing the people to be
addicted not only to the media but also whatever the products
the media propose. As one of them, coffee is also changing its
shape and regular use, becoming more modern, practical,
The Coffeeshop Company Turkey manager Ceyhan
Pusmaz claim that the chains work more in Turkey than they
work in abroad. In Austria for example, whereas the world
coffee market reaches to annual 100 billion dollars, the
Turkish market covers 500 million dollars of it. The sector is
expected to grow double in the following five years. Another
brand in the market is ‘Selamlıque İstanbul’ with its
disposable pouches offering low sugar, with and without sugar
choices with cinnamon, mastic and chocolate tastes which are
new to the people. Café Crown of Ülker and Falcı (Fortune
Teller) of Nescafe are also different brands for Turkish Coffee
instead of Kurukahveci Mehmet Efendi approaching to coffee
as an art form since 1871 and passing on the skills,
knowledge, experience and intricacies of the craft from father
to son and from master to apprentice.
Thus, the coffeeshops having the global chains such as
Gloria Jeans (19 branches), Kwaiti Starbuck (153 branches),
Finnish Roberts Coffee (37 branches), German Tchibo (52
branches) and Italian Vergnano, Caribou, European
Coffeeway, Austrian Coffeeshop Company, McDonald’s McD
Cafe (12 branches), Caff è Nero (43 branches) Lavazza are
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just a few of the 11 chains competing with each other in
Turkish market. The Turkish chains Kahve Diyarı (144
branches) and Kahve Dünyası (89 branches) are also in the
market all over the country whereas world-wide known in 50
other countries, Starbucks handle most of the market. Each
branch is welcoming more than one million visitors and this is
triggering the filter coffee consumption. A new brand in the
market, ‘Doca’ by Simit Sarayı aims to have McDonald’s+1
branches [42].
Once smelling the odor, the coffee spells the people,
bewitching them perhaps for a lifetime. They want the taste,
the comfort and the relaxation more than anything else.
Considering the impact of the media, imposing the audience to
14 minutes coffee ads every day, it would be a kind of difficult
thing to resist the call of the coffee even if you’re not addicted
to that. The one month of nutritious exposure of the coffee ads
might cause a lifetime of addiction. As the chains and brands
added the time devoted to the beverages would also enlarge as
well.
The numbers show that the market in Turkey enlarged 32
times in the past 8 years. [43] All these coffeehouse chains are
after the profit of 20.000 tons of coffee consumed in Turkey
and its approximate cost of 160.000 Euros per year. [44]
The believes of the 21st century such as “You Are What
You Eat” still carry not only a cultural value but also a
medical value. The media on the other hand is trying hard to
change the customs and traditions of the people all over the
world providing them always new choices and innovative regenerated food. The media is changing the values of the past
for future consumptions. This paper is an attempt to analyze
how the media could be affective in Turkey to change the food
and beverages consumption and how convincing the
advertisements are in this respect.
According to the statistics, 78 out of 100 people are
drinking coffee regularly and most of them see coffee drinking
as a socializing event outside home. The 72% of the women
and 59% of the men prefer to drink a cup of coffee every day.
Nowadays, people prefer milk with coffee in comparison to
the past preferences of drinking plain coffee without sugar.
More and more of the drinkers in nowadays prefer espresso,
filter coffee and americano whereas the Turkish coffee is
having some regression in respect to the filter coffee
consumption. The filter coffee offer more choices and tastes
with different aromas.
Regarding all these facts, unfortunately, the audience did
not improve the literacy skills as to notice the dynamics
beyond the print media or audio visual media ads. They may
not even think that some worldwide policies are involved in
such a pure, lovely, delicious thing. They only think of the
relaxation moment with the coffee rather than barely seeing
the food politics aiming to pull them off, separating them from
their habits, tastes and traditions. At least they are happy with
the increasing choices they have to make. The difficulty is just
to choose what kind of a consumer you’ll become: Traditional
or looking for new flavors!
In sum, we may say that the traditional Turkish coffee of
500 years, waited by the side of the fire, brewed slowly
accompanying sweet talk now put into the instant coffee bags
to get ready in 5 seconds and reduced its market into 14% only
in the modernized world. On the other hand, the stronger
coffee types such as espresso, americano cover only 3% of the
market whereas the other instant coffee types with 83% get the
largest slice of the cake.
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Analysis yield interesting compare and contrast points
between the print media and audio-visual media. The ads for
the printing press seem to be more traditional as in the one
analyzed for the bayram [45]. Even if they lack the motions
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such as the presentation of the coffee. The print media could
give us the sense that the preparations are made for such a
meeting point or time. The carefully chosen design of cup, the
silverware covers, the lace on the tray are always the sign of
the courtesy and delicacy. The glass of water just by the side
of the coffee cup also represents the relaxed atmosphere and
time devoted to such a ritual. This type of presentation is
obviously different from the 5 seconds coffee preparation
suggestions of the visual ads.
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